Mituc, I think I was just unlucky. Once I changed the internals, and tried it, I chased the leaks and fixed them. There are two seals under the cap furthest away from the camshaft. There is a main fat O ring that sits in a square notched groove, and a thin one that looks to be a dust seal. The dust ...

I installed the Autotech internals in my CDFP. They deliver +2000 PSI when going WOT. However what I did find is that they found weaknesses in the end cap seals and the main union, I'm guessing due to the higher pressure developed. I changed the two end cap seals, and used fuel proof thread lock com...

I used a MAF cleaner made by the German company Liqui Moly. When I removed the MAF sensor I found the two wires of the sensor element were caked in black deposits. A few squirts of the Liqui Moly and it was gone. Noticed an immediate improvement in acceleration response; it was crisp and smooth inst...

Mituc, I am only raising the three cells below 1000 rpm, by 100 rpm or so. From what I've gathered 850 to 1000 rpm is enough idle to help the oil seals all its going to.
Thanks for looking out for me and the rest of us.

Steve from Versatune has explained that I should enter the same values I want in both Idle Tables.

ALSO where you have MAF Calibration tables 1 & 2, you should make them both the same.

I'm thinking of raising my cold idle speed by 100 rpm or so to help develop more crankcase pressure to ease the oil/turbo seal/white smoke scenario. I notice there are two tables; Idle RPM 1 and Idle RPM 2. Which one is used by the ECU and when?

I'm a Versatuner Virgin; please be gentle. I've cleaned the MAF sensor, I have not flashed the ECU or installed Versatuner. Car is standard UK MPS 6. I've hooked the laptop up with the cable and ran the car for 30 miles mixed driving. I still have some more driving to do as the LTFT is around -9.6. ...