Under boosting on new turbo

[mituc]

Considering the symptoms and the testing you did, your EBCS may be stuck closed or it's clogged somehow. That makes the boost to build up in the wastegate actuator and open the wastegate which basically makes your car run at wastegate spring boost because the EBCS doesn't bleed.

I have it so a line runs from the turbo actuator to the boost source on the compressor housing of the turbo. In the middle of that line, there is a T-piece which routes to the 2-port BCS.

This setup offers even less control than the factory setup Unless you control what's going from the boost source to the wastegate actuator (which is how a 3-port operates, but needs 3 ports for that) then the only way to get some boost out of your car is to choke either the boost source line either the line going from the T to the wastegate actuator capsule. But if you choke it too much you will overboost. If you don't choke it enough you will run just a bit over spring pressure. So move to a 3 port, a MAC valve is 10$.

[xbrandinoalt]

I have ordered a Grimmspeed 3-port so waiting for that to come in. For now, I'll just run gate pressure. Thanks for your help, I'll let you know how it goes.

[xbrandinoalt]

One more question, as you stated earlier the throttle only opened to around 74%, how can I get it to open more if possible?

[mituc]

The amount the throttle opens depends on various parameters. The maximum is around 78%, so basically anything above 76.5-77 is considered max.
The amount of throttle is dictated by the target load, by various limits that are hit (load and boost usually), and so on.

So you will probably see more throttle once you progress with your tuning.

[xbrandinoalt]

Another question for you, what is the actual max load I should ever target? Obviously keeping the car within reasonable torque and power, can you target loads of up to 2.8 if needed, even on stock block? Or is it a general trend that a certain load like 2.5 you will be reaching the max power the stock block can take?

[mituc]

A factory stock block should not see more than like 2.3. Depending on the fuel, RPM point, and so on, load 2.3 is like 520-530Nm / 380-390lb*ft (sometimes more) and that's there the factory clutch and factory connecting rods safe limit is. It may take more than that but not for long, and it can take up to like 2.6 but at this point it may hold for 2-3 pulls or 50-60, you never know.
Of course I'm also talking in the context of optimized fuelling and timing tables, because with the factory fuelling and timing tables you will only torch everything on the exhaust: the turbo, exhaust valves and valve seals and cats if you have any.

At this point on this forum there are at least 3 people who got themselves into self tuning but barely know what they're doing. You are one of them. I hate to see these engines blow from stupid mistakes or lack of tuning knowledge. For this reason I strongly suggest to reach out to one of the professionals or at least to one of the highly skilled amateurs wandering around here.

[xbrandino]

Say as you wish, but I assure you I am aware of what I am doing.

Quoting you and only quoting you, "I would not go above load 2.3 (pump gas) on these engines before 3500rpm. At 3500rpm upwards it's fine." Maybe English isn't first language, but from my understanding when you say 3500rpm upwards is fine, pretty sure that means anything more than 2.3 load is okay???

It doesn't hurt to ask a questions for reassurance, hence this forum, so maybe next time be more clear.