HPFP Internals and intake

Discussion of tuning specific to MAZDASPEED6/MAZDASPEED Atenza/Mazda 6 MPS vehicles
mteogr
Posts: 23
Joined: October 17th, 2017, 11:22 am

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mteogr »

I will go for a custom decat downpipe next week and I would like to ask if is something to watch out for ? The mechanic told me that he will place the lamda sensors in the same spot as the factory setup. Do I need to use an extender-spacer at the second lamda for better reading? I would also like to ask if the downpipe flange is the same for 3,6 and cx7. I gave to the mechanic a downpipe from a cx7 to make the flange for the custom downipe but I am not 100% sure if are the same. I already wait for my ETS TMIC and a 3.5 intake so the downpipe is the last part before the custom tune!
mituc
VersaTuner guru
Posts: 1324
Joined: December 17th, 2011, 2:47 pm
Location: Iasi/Romania

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mituc »

The flange is the same between all models with the 2.3DISI-T engine. However the rest of the downpipe is not: the 6MPS and CX7 have a transfer case, and it sits further away from the exhaust manifold than in the 6MPS. But as long as only the flange is used as a pattern for manufacturing another one you're good.
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Built engine + WMI + GTX3071 gen2, ~509BHP @34PSI
2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7
Stock engine and exhaust (YES!!), JBR3" + GTX2867 gen2 + Autotech HPFP, self-tuned to 330-ish BHP
mteogr
Posts: 23
Joined: October 17th, 2017, 11:22 am

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mteogr »

Do I need to use a second lamda spacer for CEL fix? I know that I can disable CEL from versatune but I wonder if it is better with the spacer.
mituc
VersaTuner guru
Posts: 1324
Joined: December 17th, 2011, 2:47 pm
Location: Iasi/Romania

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mituc »

It may work with a spacer.
However a 200cel sport cat is always a good idea.
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Built engine + WMI + GTX3071 gen2, ~509BHP @34PSI
2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7
Stock engine and exhaust (YES!!), JBR3" + GTX2867 gen2 + Autotech HPFP, self-tuned to 330-ish BHP
mteogr
Posts: 23
Joined: October 17th, 2017, 11:22 am

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mteogr »

I installed the decat downpipe and I installed the high flow dowpipe tune.
I saw an improvement in performance and much better sound!
The only downside is that I saw smoke when I leave the car at idle for long period.
Do I need to change the idle rpm?
I already have but not installed an Oil Catch Can.
mituc
VersaTuner guru
Posts: 1324
Joined: December 17th, 2011, 2:47 pm
Location: Iasi/Romania

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mituc »

Raise the idle RPM to at least 800. The smaller back-pressure will make any potential turbo seals issue more evident. This doesn't mean your turbo is bad or will go bad, it may very well be just condensation since not having a cat there means lower exhaust temps, but it's best to raise the idle RPM just for that.

If you have a catch-can then install that as well, it's always a good idea.
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Built engine + WMI + GTX3071 gen2, ~509BHP @34PSI
2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7
Stock engine and exhaust (YES!!), JBR3" + GTX2867 gen2 + Autotech HPFP, self-tuned to 330-ish BHP
mteogr
Posts: 23
Joined: October 17th, 2017, 11:22 am

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mteogr »

Thank you for your response! As always you are very helpful!
I wonder if a gen2 valve cover helps for the smoking turbo issue.
mituc
VersaTuner guru
Posts: 1324
Joined: December 17th, 2011, 2:47 pm
Location: Iasi/Romania

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mituc »

mteogr wrote:I wonder if a gen2 valve cover helps for the smoking turbo issue.
The gen2 valve cover has improved baffles and prevents oil from being thrown or condensing on the valve cover top and then drip through the vent. Other than that the valve cover vent hose was moved closer to the turbo for better suction of any oil that will make its way through.

So up to an extent it will lower the amount of oil drawn by the turbo and then pushed into the engine, but will not affect the amount of oil that escapes in the exhaust by the seals on the turbine side.
So if your turbo smokes it's because oil and/or coolant pour into the exhaust, not because of what happens in the intake. See if the raised idle band aid will help and also make sure you use the right oil (a good ACEA A3 oil, 5w40, full or ester synthetic). Sitting in slow traffic or at idle for long periods of time may increase the chances of the turbo to start smoking, but it will not necessarily trigger this event. Also, even if it smoked once, the turbo may actually be good and will not smoke for years from now, maybe only intermittently.

P.S.: when diagnosing a smoking turbo make sure the smoke is blue, and you don't mistake it with the condensation which is normal in humid and/or chill mornings.
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Built engine + WMI + GTX3071 gen2, ~509BHP @34PSI
2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7
Stock engine and exhaust (YES!!), JBR3" + GTX2867 gen2 + Autotech HPFP, self-tuned to 330-ish BHP
mteogr
Posts: 23
Joined: October 17th, 2017, 11:22 am

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mteogr »

The smoke is blue and it happened when I the car was at idle for about 5-10 minutes. I raised the idle to 950 and I will check again.
The oil I use is Motul 8100 Eco-lite 5w30 . It is supposed better for direct ignition engine and prevent low speed pre ignition.
I thought that 5w30 is suitable for our cars not 5w40.
mituc
VersaTuner guru
Posts: 1324
Joined: December 17th, 2011, 2:47 pm
Location: Iasi/Romania

Re: HPFP Internals and intake

Post by mituc »

mteogr wrote:I thought that 5w30 is suitable for our cars not 5w40.
Mazda came back later and recommended 5w40 instead of 5w30. Switch to 5w40 2 weeks ago!
In particular the Eco-Lite is one of the most unsuitable oil for these engines of all 5w30's in the 8100 series from Motul. The worse than that would be the diesel oils (ACEA C1/C2 or C3).
You simply can't make such mistakes with oil on a car that is also supposed to be tuned! No way!

Switch to an ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4 (the A3 is important here) full (motul, mobil1, shell, whatever) or ester synthetic (redline, amsoil, royal purple) 5w40. The oil you are currently using is the reason why your turbo smokes and also because the oil when hot is too thin will clog and cook around the turbine shaft in a higher amount, so when the turbo starts cold it will be eroded more by the shit there.
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Built engine + WMI + GTX3071 gen2, ~509BHP @34PSI
2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7
Stock engine and exhaust (YES!!), JBR3" + GTX2867 gen2 + Autotech HPFP, self-tuned to 330-ish BHP
Post Reply