High LTFT's and other challenges

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Oh, now i'm starting to understand
Thanks for your patience and help again!

I checked leaks, tightened hoses, as good as I could. The system took 30 secs to leak empty from 1 bar pressurisation, so
there's might some leaks still I couldn't find.

I really hope a new wg actuator (and maybe boost solenoid after that) shall bring the solution for
wgdc issue - after that it's the Authorized Mazda marble desk that gets my kidney for troubleshooting further my 4 wheeled pandora's box

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As said, I have a new wga coming, but a holiday trip coming ahead also.

Been staying out of wot, and just wanted to know what would be the safest
tune to drive if i'm not able to change the wga before the trip. Is Valet v2.03
lowering the boost so the motor would be safer?

[mituc]

No, I wouldn't use that map. Anyway with that map you will boost at the wastegate spring rate and you're hitting the load cut at spring rate (0% WGDC) in the higher rev range.
It's pretty difficult to tune around a defect but hat I'd do would be to:
1. lower the values in the overboost protection throttle reduction table to like 175kPa (that should make the ECU close the throttle whenever you hit more than 10PSI);
2. replace all the occurrences for values of 65 or more in the DBW Throttle Normal/Overload with 62-65, and all that column for 6k rpm with 45 wherever the values are higher than that. Or copy the DBW knocking over the normal and overload table;
3. copy the high BAT stock load targets for each gear over the low BAT table AND target load 1.15 instead of 1.255 at 6k rpm.

Make some tests prior to leaving on vacation and make sure your car works fine with these changes and if it still cuts fueling at least it does that later and in fewer situations than before.

[Steve @ VersaTune]

You can reduce the DBW throttle as a temporary workaround to deal with a problematic wastegate. I did that when I first put the ATP 3071R on and it had essentially no boost control via the undersized wastegate.

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Alrighty, i'll try that. Thanks again!

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Hi guys, hope you all had a nice summer!

My car was today at one repair shop, but they didn't find the reason why wgdc is what it is: it is still as before.

Car was also on dyno with base 98 tune, and yielded only
156Kw's/300nm torque That tune in my car actually felt really mild on butt dyno, and they said also that there was a total lack of power on high rpm's.

They mechanically metered boost and couldn't get anything over 0.7-0.9 bar up to 6600rpm (messing with actuator arm and bcs hoses way they could get 1,5), so
i'm really puzzled now. Any idea why Versatuner was showing high boost, is there something wrong with MAP sensor etc? If logs attached don't show too high boost anymore, then it might was the Actuator arm that was rubbing to the heat shield? I carved some off from heatshield and now it's ok what comes to rod movement. The dynoing btw was done without the heat shield, so there weren't any obstacles.

Well, tonight I returned the car back to stock and it was totally different, at least acceleration was hugely better. I haven't dynoed with stock tune yet because it's
80euros/shot, but that could be a good idea (to see if my butt dyno is accurate ).

Do you have any idea why base tune is performing as it is?

[Steve @ VersaTune]

Please list all of your mods. Do you have an AEM 3.5 BAR MAP?

Logs with the General Performance preset would be helpful as they include APP.

Thanks!

Edit - Your MAF cal is way off or you have a boost leak. Your LTFTs are all huge negative. If you look at your WOT AFRs they are probably very rich. I would start by checking all of your turbo and intercooler piping.

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Oh, that AEM 3.5 BAR parameterer I just clicked to see, what the heck it is, and it stayed there trough logging, sorry

Only mods are at the moment bigger TIP from corksport and egr delete kit. I'll continue to chase those boost leaks.

Just for comparison if you have experience on testing leaks: if you put with compressor lets say 1 bar pressure to the system via turbo inlet,
how long does the system hold it? For me it took about 30 seconds to drain out.

[Steve @ VersaTune]

Your MAP and Load don't correlate. That tells me that you have a MAF cal problem or boost leak. MAP in BAR and Load should be relatively close at lower rpm and Load should drop below MAP at higher rpm.

[Steve @ VersaTune]

When leak testing, spray soapy water on all of the connections. Look for bubbles.
I use liquid dish soap and water in a spray bottle.