It's simple, just check your dashboard
You only added a few of those parameters.
As for the O2 sensor issue, the reason for the readings we see may be the fact that it doesn't come up to temp.
So disconnect the MAF sensor harness, start your car with the MAF disconnected, let it idle for 1 minute, connect the MAF (expect the engine to shut down - it's ok).
Log the whole process by adding the following parameters on your dashboard (and remove whatever else you have in there and is not in this list):
- engine load
- engine rpm
- fuel rail pressure (actual, NOT desired!)
- short term fuel trims
- maf g/s
- maf voltage
- manifold absolute pressure (make sure the MAP is calibrated on your dashboard similarly to how you have it in your tune - if you have an aftermarket MAP sensor)
- actual afr
- desired afr
- relative throttle position
- engine coolant temperature
- boosted air temperature
- knock retard
- ignition timing advance
- actual valve advance
- wastegate duty cycle
...and remove anything else!
Start logging BEFORE you start the engine (leave the key to on and log for 5-10 seconds before starting the engine) and you can stop logging once the engine shuts down. If when you connect the MAF sensor the engine will not shut down then CONTINUE logging even if the RPM is oscillating or does some other weird things, whatever it does at that point the data gathered will help us figure this out.
As for the intake, if it's not a secret, would you mind telling us what brand is it, eventually provide a link to the exact product your purchased? Maybe if you break this secret we can provide you with a proper MAF calibration for it. I've had people telling me they have a 3" intake they were measuring the outside diameter of the pipe, the internal diameter being exactly stock size. So I just want to be sure it's not one of those things.