VersaTune User Forum

I don't mind helping out getting you started with a safe base tune if you are stuck....... drop me a message at [email protected] and I'll be glad to be of assistance

Well I got some issues with my car worked out and ready to get it tuned. No CEL or any apparent problems. Just replaced fuel injector seals and removed VTCS flaps. Adjusted the tables some and for some reason I’m hitting 14% LTFT at cruise or under load. It appears I’m not hitting AFR targets either. It seems like it’s running rich when stoic is commanded. It is my understanding that the CorkSport Stage II Power Series Intake w/ TIP does not need an MAF calibration. Inexperienced with tuning but want to learn more.


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zaclaw wrote:It is my understanding that the CorkSport Stage II Power Series Intake w/ TIP does not need an MAF calibration. Inexperienced with tuning but want to learn more.

It does need an MAF calibration.
We shared the MAF cals somewhere around here, please check that section.

P.S.: Later edit: http://www.versatune.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=231

mituc wrote:

zaclaw wrote:It is my understanding that the CorkSport Stage II Power Series Intake w/ TIP does not need an MAF calibration. Inexperienced with tuning but want to learn more.

It does need an MAF calibration.
We shared the MAF cals somewhere around here, please check that section.

P.S.: Later edit: http://www.versatune.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=231

I have the CorkSport Stage II SRI w/ TIP, not the 3” intake. I did check out that thread and didn’t see a MAF calibration for that specific intake. The one by skiptown might be what I need, but it can’t be opened with my VersaTune license as mine is for CX-7. I looked on MSF, too.

From everything I’ve gathered online, including information I’ve seen from CorkSport, this intake doesn’t ‘require’ a calibration per se, and is very close to the stock MAF housing diameter. I’m sure it needs calibration, however. I wish they at least offered an OTS calibration because my trims seem too far off to be satisfactory and I’m probably not seeing much of a gain from the intake/TIP.

Where should I start? What are the recommended LTFT partitions for my setup? Maybe someone else is able to open skiptown’s vtune file and extract the MAF tables?


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This is the MAF cal I extracted from skiptowncat's tune. They say it doesn't require a calibration because the deviation from OEM is within the accepted limits.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kwo6mli3pr4s7 ... .xlsx?dl=0

mituc wrote:This is the MAF cal I extracted from skiptowncat's tune. They say it doesn't require a calibration because the deviation from OEM is within the accepted limits.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kwo6mli3pr4s7 ... .xlsx?dl=0

Awesome, thank you. I'll flash this and report back. Now to get it running at safe levels until I get the upgraded HPFP internals. Gotta do suspension next. It's all over the road with these worn out struts and shocks.

When you swap the struts (OEM springs are ok IMHO) a tower strut brace will be a good addition. Check this out:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f ... -a-219098/
I have both the tower strut brace and a lower/underside brace and the handling is better than a stock 2014+ mazda 3 or the lastest CX5, which for a big old chariot like the CX7 is absolutely phenomenal.
So add these two to your suspension setup:
http://www.thespeedline.com/05-mazda-cx ... strut-bar/
http://www.thespeedline.com/05-mazda-cx ... strut-bar/

The top strut brace will require some trimming but it's not that bad.

mituc wrote:When you swap the struts (OEM springs are ok IMHO) a tower strut brace will be a good addition. Check this out:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f ... -a-219098/
I have both the tower strut brace and a lower/underside brace and the handling is better than a stock 2014+ mazda 3 or the lastest CX5, which for a big old chariot like the CX7 is absolutely phenomenal.
So add these two to your suspension setup:
http://www.thespeedline.com/05-mazda-cx ... strut-bar/
http://www.thespeedline.com/05-mazda-cx ... strut-bar/

The top strut brace will require some trimming but it's not that bad.

I had seen that before and it looked like it’d be worth adding. I had a strut brace on my Saab 9-3 and it made a noticeable difference. I’m eager to feel the difference on the CX-7 with having the lower brace as well with new struts and shocks. I thought that the 2016 CX-9 actually handled better than my 2016 Mazda6 did so it’s certainly believable. Going with KYB Excel-G on the suspension. Looks like a good OEM replacement, maybe slightly stiffer. I’ll probably replace the outer tie rod ends and rear stabilizer links with OEM as well. It had the front lower control arms and stabilizer links done under recall last year. Power steering pump is whining now so I’ll have to deal with that, too. Got about 196k miles on the chassis and 35k on the engine.


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Significant improvement with the MAF calibration. It's not perfect, but certainly better. I've only driven about 25 miles so far with it but LTFTs are mostly within +/- 3%. A couple of spikes up to +/- 7-8% occasionally but I'll wait to see if they settle. Partitions are set at 5.7, 18, 30, 50, 80, 200. Almost no KR. Need to do some more logging this weekend but I'm only seeing boost hit about 9psi max, load targets are being reached. Doesn't seem normal as I was under the impression the stock turbo hits around 14-15psi max. WGDC seems to be on target.

Boost is not only a measure of how much air is pushed into the engine, but also a measure of the effort the engine needs to make to take that air in. With a better flowing exhaust you may see lower boost for the same air flow/load. Especially these days when it's colder outside and the air is denser.
When you can post a WOT log.
You can use this preset for a proper log in case your logging doesn't already have these:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j0nkonviosucv ... vtpre?dl=0