need little guide

[mituc]

Something changed.
1. the huge KR is gone.
2. in the WOT log there's a bit too less air for the boost the car is making, and in the steady driving the fuel trims are positive indicating that you may have a leak somewhere, apparently on the vacuum side.
So check all the hoses, clamps, vacuum lines going to the EBCS, VTCS. BPV, and so on. Come on, you're close to fixing it!

[CrazyCanadian]

Hello Mituc
i have pulled out the injectors and cleaned and tested , also installed the Cs seals
unfortunately solved nothing , already flashed updated maps twice with same results

Take a longer log.. Something that shows idle, smooth accell, WOT and smooth steady state driving... It looks like your MAF sensor might be dirty/not reading correctly.. The last 2 logs show 2-4% lean at WOT and long term trims at +6% under load.. Now this is within what's considered normal tolerances...

Cleaning a MAF sensor doesn't always "fix" it.. Sometimes the build up can't be cleaned off... This causes the MAF to reaction to be slower then whats actually going on.. Often it'll cause knock issues because fueling doesn't meet whats needed.. It's delayed slightly..

Contaminated MAF sensors often show up with negative fuel trims at idle, positive under load.. The more load the more postive they get get.. Lean under WOT.. Do you have a copy of the tune in the car?

Make sure the car is up to temp when doing the test.. So it should have be running for 20min or more prior to testing.. Another trick is to clear trims when doing the test.. Having no long term trims means the short term trims are in control and sometimes paint a more easy to see picture..

[Hatem]

Hello Mituc
i have pulled out the injectors and cleaned and tested , also installed the Cs seals
unfortunately solved nothing , already flashed updated maps twice with same results

Take a longer log.. Something that shows idle, smooth accell, WOT and smooth steady state driving... It looks like your MAF sensor might be dirty/not reading correctly.. The last 2 logs show 2-4% lean at WOT and long term trims at +6% under load.. Now this is within what's considered normal tolerances...

Cleaning a MAF sensor doesn't always "fix" it.. Sometimes the build up can't be cleaned off... This causes the MAF to reaction to be slower then whats actually going on.. Often it'll cause knock issues because fueling doesn't meet whats needed.. It's delayed slightly..

Contaminated MAF sensors often show up with negative fuel trims at idle, positive under load.. The more load the more postive they get get.. Lean under WOT.. Do you have a copy of the tune in the car?

Make sure the car is up to temp when doing the test.. So it should have be running for 20min or more prior to testing.. Another trick is to clear trims when doing the test.. Having no long term trims means the short term trims are in control and sometimes paint a more easy to see picture..

Hello
i changed the maf it made no different , this problem happened since i rebuild the turbo i will try to check every thing around the turbo if there is something wrong around it again

[Hatem]

more to share , please check this video i have uploaded in youtube
my car is automatic , usually after stop boosting for few second the car rpm goes to idle and the car as rolling with no pressure , around two years the turbo got damage and too much smoke came from the back , anyway after fixing and rebuild the turbo the Rpm doesn't act as before , i know this is tunning support but i have no place to ask , in my city we have few or non who has experience in direct injection engine with turbo , i hope if someone knows what's going on and whats missing to make the car normal

the issue will appeared in the 18 seconds of the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8i7S0ZhS0A

[mituc]

The video has no sound, it's absolutely impossible to figure anything out only by how the RPM needle moves because there's no indication what you're actually doing (cruising, idling, accelerating, and so on).

But may be air/fuel related most probably, an intake or exhaust leak, evap valve going out, PCV remaining stuck, and so on.

[CrazyCanadian]

Hello Mituc
i have pulled out the injectors and cleaned and tested , also installed the Cs seals
unfortunately solved nothing , already flashed updated maps twice with same results

Take a longer log.. Something that shows idle, smooth accell, WOT and smooth steady state driving... It looks like your MAF sensor might be dirty/not reading correctly.. The last 2 logs show 2-4% lean at WOT and long term trims at +6% under load.. Now this is within what's considered normal tolerances...

Cleaning a MAF sensor doesn't always "fix" it.. Sometimes the build up can't be cleaned off... This causes the MAF to reaction to be slower then whats actually going on.. Often it'll cause knock issues because fueling doesn't meet whats needed.. It's delayed slightly..

Contaminated MAF sensors often show up with negative fuel trims at idle, positive under load.. The more load the more postive they get get.. Lean under WOT.. Do you have a copy of the tune in the car?

Make sure the car is up to temp when doing the test.. So it should have be running for 20min or more prior to testing.. Another trick is to clear trims when doing the test.. Having no long term trims means the short term trims are in control and sometimes paint a more easy to see picture..

Hello
i changed the maf it made no different , this problem happened since i rebuild the turbo i will try to check every thing around the turbo if there is something wrong around it again

I still suggest running the road test process I was talking about and post it up... I've seen plenty of New MAF sensors that were "bad" out of the box... The road test I am talking about will give a lot of data that can help narrow down the problems.

[Hatem]

Hello sorry for late replay i went to many parts in the car to check the problem of my crazy RPM rev problem
my long trim and short trim seems getting better after changing the fuel filter checked all the vacuum lines again and again with pressure and with the carb cleaner spray checked the actuator and IMRC as well even i have changed the turbo which because the problem has started with i changed my first turbo but still my problem still same
as my log when i am letting the pedals off the rpm will take long time to drop to idle speed
please take a look to my log and also i am thinking about reducing the idle and also i need opinion about the fuel pressure rail sensor if its normal

thanks

[mituc]

Your log file has the column titles shifter right once cel.
Even when you let off, the acceleration pedal position is reported to be 31%. So you may have a problem with the pedal.