New to VT, need help getting started

[Andi_RC36]

Hey Guys,

I'm totally new to VT.
I installed VT on my Gen 2 MS3 and flashed the 95EU Octane Base Tune in order to drive E10.

These Mods were done:
Corksport TMIC , HPFP-upgrade, airbox mod with HKS-Filter, EGR-delete, balanceshaft delete, Racepipe, Grimmspeed EBCS (3-port mode) and an upgraded K04 Turbo with bigger compressor wheel and stiffer turbo-actuator.

While doing some logs, fuelcuts happened.

Log.zip

(1012.19 KiB) Downloaded 722 times

Now I'd like to know, how to start in order to get a propper tune for my setup.

Thanks for helping me getting started

[mituc]

This log has 21605 lines, if would be nice if next time you either edit your own logs and post only the relevant parts or simply hit the logging button just before you want to sample some data and stop logging right after, and have no more than like 50-60 lines in a log.

So have several problems:
1. the factory MAP sensor capabilities are exceeded, you go above 255kPa quite often and that's how much that sensor will measure. You need a 3 or 3.5BAR MAP sensor.
2. the wastegate arm/actuator you have and the EBCS don't work together either because the actuator has a too stiff spring or because the EBCS is not hooked up correctly. As you can see you're making boost past the factory MAP sensor reading abilities with 0 WGDC which is an indication that your boost control system doesn't have the ability to correct boost based on the load.
3. deleting the EGR will not do you any good.
4. Deleting the balance shaft will only do you worse because it is there to dampen some vibrations will otherwise will start eating up your main bearings. Expect significantly shorter life for your engine.
5. Going WOT so early (2200-2500rpm) on an otherwise stock motor with a far from optimal and well designed setup will definitely put a hole in your block.
6. the timing tables are also stock, insisting so much at WOT will only burn your exhaust valve seals or even the valves themselves, assuming that the rods will hold.

At this point it looks like you just threw parts to your car with absolutely no plan about how are you going to increase the power. This is the ultimate documentary movie about "what did you do to blow your engine today".

Go back to the shop, rethink the way you want to make power, fix the wastegate and/or EBCS, start with a more conservative tune and once you have seamless control over every aspect of how the hardware works continue from there.

[Andi_RC36]

Hi mituc,
thanks for your answer, let's go from point to point:
To the logs, I just did not know how to cut out the relevant parts. I'll nex time just record the wot part.

1. The MAP sensor should not be any problem, since I don't want to go above 255kPa, because it's still a K04 based turbo.

2. The EBCS and the Wastegate actuator are not doing their job as they should. I'll check the Connections. Just to be 100% sure, can you tell me, how you would connect the hoses to the EBCS.
I just did another test and put the BCS DC Base to 0 over the whole table, the result was the same, absolute load is still over the desired.

3. Deleting the EGR doesn't give you increase in Power, but is quite necessary for your inlet valves to stay clean.

4. I am completly sure about the effects of deleting the balance shaft, the 2nd order mass forces won't be equated. The vibrations aren't even noticable in the MS3 . By the way, the native Ford engine the mazdaspeed engine was engineered on, didn't have a balance shaft, like many other 4 Cylinder engines. The big advantages in deleting the BS are -2kg rotating mass (--> quicker rev) and the ability to put about 1,5 liter oil aditionally in the engine (for the same oil level) what raises the absolute thermal capacity and reduces the oil temperatures

5. Going WOT early isn't a good idea, i know, this was just for log purposes.

6 I just took the 95EU Octane Base map, if you have better values to start from, I'll take them.
I rather wanted to check, what the boost does before going over the timing

As a side note: Before installing Versatuner I had a well functioning boost based tune, which was done on Mazdaedit and ran on 1,48 bar boost pressure.

Best Regards
Andi

[DJJUT]

Hi there,

The wastegate duty cycle values in the tune are not the issue here as already mentioned. You are using 0% wastegate duty cycle in the logs and still overboosting which shows that either the boost control solenoid is hooked up incorrectly or the wastegate actuator spring on the turbo is set too stiff (I have seen this on Ebay K04's).

Start by checking the connections on the 3port BCS :

- Port 1 should got to the intake/turbo inlet pipe
- Port 2 should go to the wastegate actuator (if the actuator has two nipples then one of these will need blanking off)
- Port 3 should go to a boost source (ideally this would be the nipple on the turbo compressor housing)

A wrongly fitted 3port BCS that causes overboost can usually be felt in how the car drives without even going WOT - the car feels almost too eager to pull even with small throttle inputs.

Once you confirm all connections are good then you can test by doing a log in 3rd gear and from 3000rpm - for this I would set the wastegate duty cycle values at 0% and also set an alarm on the VT logging dashboard at something like 18psi so that you have an audible warning which, if heard, gives you a chance to take your foot off of the accelerator.

Let us know how you get on.

[Andi_RC36]

Hey guys,

A short update:

The Grimmspeed EBCS in 3-port mode is installed correctly and works the way it should.
I contacted the turbo manufacturer about the wastegate actuator spring. He told me the actuator opens at a pressure about 0.8 bar (compared to OEM 0.5 bar).
That seams to be the reason for overboosting.
I raised the load target to about 2.3 falling to 1.9 from 3k - 5.5k rpm and highered the load and boost limits slightly.
As a result I get no more fuelcuts.

At the moment I'm getting a KR of ~4 at 5k in WOT.
Which lambda would you suggest me to drive (right now 0.7) and how to deal with the timing on an upgraded turbo( how many ° are noticable in order to prevent knocking)?

Best regards

Andi

[mituc]

As always, please post some relevant logs.
KR of 4-5 around 5k RPM under WOT is ringland cracking... they will not last long if the car runs like this.

Lambda of 0.7 is already pretty low, at this point you should lower the timing (at KR of 5 I suggest to lower the timing at least 4 degrees for starters) because you are already past the limit of what the fuel of that octane can handle.