6port full bridgeport

[80HD]

Curious...

Many tuners i have come across say you need to tune the renesis to brap

they also tend to use adaptronic or mazda edit and wont divulge what tweaks have been made to a stock tune or what basic parameters are required to adapt it to versatuner

I guess by this you are a builder of bridgeports on the regular

[Tezrota]

Yes mate, I build engines, run a engine rebuild business.
Trying to learn some tuning.
Hopefully there's some more helpful legends like yourself
Alot of rhe mazdaedut community don't share any info

Tez

[80HD]

Aaaah, I reckon I know your company, and you managed to help me with my bridgeport enquiries built by someone else that I couldn't get to brap with a small bridge on the primary, via messenger.

Your builds are awesome and I still think I should have got you to stack my keg.

Interesting that your usual porting wont brap as you port BIG. There has got to be something in the tables that helps as Mazdaedit, from what I can tell, has the same tables as it is effectively an unlock of the existing ecu.

The tune attached previously, I found will only brap once the engine is at running temp. Before then it won't really. i.e on my way home from the office after 10 mins it will shake the car.

If you manage to break the spell of Mazdaedit tuners I would be keen to find out the magic to make it work or at least enhance it.

I was advised to drill a small hole in the throttle body. I don't see how this would work unless it leans out idle mixtures or he was being trolled by a mazdaedit tuner with the secret sauce. i cant see any ME tuners doing this... hence why i am calling BS.

Curious to know what idle AFRs your typical builds get on idle to see if it is a lean vs rich thing.
A guy on Youtube i was conversing with suggested run as lean as is reasonable watching manifold temps. he tuned a bridge REW on Haltec though.

My open loop is off at idle resulting in a very rich condition. it could be the wrong way.

Once i get my AFR gage hooked up i might have to play with the fuel tables in that rev range and i will report back.

No need to respond, more of a brain dump for me to return back to as I experiment further.

Any thoughts or contributions are welcome (from ANYBODY)

[Walle]

open the SSV at idle and you will have more brapps.

if its higher rpm (cold engine) it will be higher than sufficient to introduce the inefficiency..

no matter how large your bridges are, the over lap is almost non existent. and worst of all its all before TDC.. so we with bridge (I have only 2nd and aux bridged)

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and it braps ok at idle. raspy.

there are those ghost tunes and I suspect its a very big change in ignition timing for example (lets say 10deg at 1000rpm, 30deg ad 1005 rpm) but I would avoid doing such (oiling ect)

[80HD]

I do have my SSV open as well.
t piece in the ssv line with 1 way valve to the vfad nipple.
that way it opens ssv at idle but switches to the vac tank from the solenoids to the rear of the intake.

no one way from the vfad or direct to the vfad simply wont hold enough vac.

impressed with how far you went opening up the aux ports ^^^

[80HD]

No unfortunately, it's one of my big bridgeports which Normally brap like crazy

More trial and error

my idle lead timing was way to advanced so reduced it to 20 and also delayed the trailing timing
much better and stable braps
the rpm correction rpm has been set to let it brap but has ends that stop it stuttering or surging at idle
the load ignition maps were also played with to try and get it to come back down to idle. for some reason when clutch goes in above 2000 rpm it wants to sit there and then slowly comes back to idle.
Idle brap is however strong and consistent even with lights on.
A/C still works but wont brap.

if someone else wants to test the tune on a half or full cut, id appreciate feedback albeit it is a crackle tune with lots of supporting mods, so at your risk i guess...