Load targets

[mituc]

I also agree with what Skiptowncat said. I wouldn't go higher than 11.8 and eventually target in the high 10 range above like 6000rpm.

[skiptownmcat]

Yeah, I target 11.8 to 4.5k then 11.6 at 5k tapering down to 11 at 7k

[joey]

Thx guys! I appreciate your input! I'm busy teasing my wgdc in and also working on my ign timing at wot.

[mituc]

Well, you should tune one thing at a time:
- boost/load first;
- ...this will give you the wgdc values you need to put in;
- then set the afr targets;
- and at last see how high you can go with the advance timing for the boost and afr's you have.

[joey]

You can test it off the car by putting 12v to it. It should click.

With it on the car, you should be able to hear it click when you floor the accelerator pedal with the key on and the engine off.

The 2 pin connector should have +12v switched on one side and PWM ground on the other.

Hi Steve,

I have replaced the oem bcs and did the test as you advised by ign on and engine off, flooring the APP to the floor(ie 100%) but still no clicking from the bcs. The bcs is working out of car by supplying 12V and it clicks as described.

So I figured the wiring could be up to crap... I have replaced the wire going to the ECU, ie "B" to 2AA PCM pin. Link Still no luck, so I figure its the 12V supply from the Main relay to terminal "A" on the bcs. Can I bypass that an give it ign on 12V?

[Steve @ VersaTune]

Do you see +12v on that pin in the harness when the key is on? The other pin should be a PWM -12v signal. If your new solenoid pulls too much current, you may have damaged the driver on the ECU board. I would think that the fuse would protect it from that though.

Did you check the fuse?

To do the click test in the car, you need to log wastegate soleniod duty cycle and slowly press the accelerator pedal and watch the solenoid DC. When it's somewhere in the 30% - 70% range, you should hear it clicking/buzzing on and off. at 0% and 100% it should be silent.

[joey]

Do you see +12v on that pin in the harness when the key is on? The other pin should be a PWM -12v signal. If your new solenoid pulls too much current, you may have damaged the driver on the ECU board. I would think that the fuse would protect it from that though.

Did you check the fuse?

To do the click test in the car, you need to log wastegate soleniod duty cycle and slowly press the accelerator pedal and watch the solenoid DC. When it's somewhere in the 30% - 70% range, you should hear it clicking/buzzing on and off. at 0% and 100% it should be silent.

I get an 12v signal from the "A" terminal(this one runs to the main relay). "B" runs to the PWM(which is the negative signal -12v). Its still the OEM bcs, not an upgraded one like the Cobb 3-port ebcs. Dunno how the ECU would have gotten damaged, i really don't hope so though... I tested the wgdc in the car with the engine off and the ign to on and slowly pressed the APP to 100%. Wgdc stays on 1.7% and does not budge. How do I test the fuse? And are u talking about the Main relay?

[joey]

Here is the wiring diagram for the MPS3 BCS:

[Steve @ VersaTune]

On the USMD Mazdaspeed6, the BCS is fed through the 5A Fan fuse. Also on the USDM MS6 with stock BCS DC table, the BCS DC will go to 100% with key on engine off and pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor. Do you have 100% DC set at 500 RPM like the stock table?

bcswiring1.jpg (57.62 KiB) Viewed 14228 times

Look where the main relay feeds the BCS to see what fuse it's on.

bcswiring2.jpg (58.84 KiB) Viewed 14228 times

[joey]

On the USMD Mazdaspeed6, the BCS is fed through the 5A Fan fuse. Also on the USDM MS6 with stock BCS DC table, the BCS DC will go to 100% with key on engine off and pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor. Do you have 100% DC set at 500 RPM like the stock table?
Look where the main relay feeds the BCS to see what fuse it's on.

Hi Steve,

Here is the MPS3 manual: Online edition

My fan still works so I guess my 5a fuse is still intact.

This is driving me nuts.

Also my WGDC is set to 50% in the low RPM's.