New Member with some questions..

[leka]

Hi!

I'll be buying the VT this week, but before, there is some things I need to clear.
Good to know, i recently changed my hobby to this, before was gaming :p now I'm 25 years and I'm old for games so bottom of line i'm a noobi

First of all, Swedish MPS 06
with the current mods are
CP-E DP-catback
Sure SIR
SURE TIP
Denso itv20 (Sweden is a cold country)
+ HYPERTECH

My issue is after i changed the DP, i started getting some lose of power at higher rpm, not all gear, and also sometimes.

then i decided to change the sparks, they were old and rusty :S so i guess that was a good start, but the problem did not disappear, but it was less noticeable.

Some people says that after the DP has been changed, The turbo has to be tuned for the free air that goes down to the DP.

Hypertech did not cause the problem. I return to the stock settings, and the problem remains.

What could Versatune do for me?
I run with a 95EU

Regards

[Steve @ VersaTune]

Typically, unless properly tuned for it, the turbo will boost spike in higher gears with a high flow exhaust. In response to the boost spike, the ECU pulls boost control solenoid duty cycle hard causing an underboost situation which makes the car feel sluggish until it recovers. Sometimes the turbo does not return to the desired boost level by the time you need to shift. Then after you shift, it repeats the cycle.

Proper tuning of the boost control solenoid and load targeting tables will smooth this out.

[leka]

Thanks for the reply, can I just stick with the Online tune base tunes? or do i need perm? (in my case) witch one in this case?

Typically, unless properly tuned for it, the turbo will boost spike in higher gears with a high flow exhaust. In response to the boost spike, the ECU pulls boost control solenoid duty cycle hard causing an underboost situation which makes the car feel sluggish until it recovers. Sometimes the turbo does not return to the desired boost level by the time you need to shift. Then after you shift, it repeats the cycle.

Proper tuning of the boost control solenoid and load targeting tables will smooth this out.

[Steve @ VersaTune]

There is a tune for 6 MPS with a high flow downpipe. You can start with that and see how it performs. You can make small adjustments to the BCS DC table and load targets to customize it for your specific combination. If you are not comfortable tuning it yourself, there are good eTuning resources available. You will find your fellow VersaTuner owners to be very helpful.

[leka]

Alright, I'll be back with more stupid questions

cheers.

[mituc]

Hypertech can handle the downpipe pretty well and you should also see a slight increase in power with it. At least I did.
However, it's hard to figure out what problem you have without some monitoring. Upgrading the downpipe should not result in any power loss but an exhaust leak before the turbo may do that. If you can you should take a look in that area and see if you find any marks of gases escaping the exhaust just in case something happened during the DP install.

Now, we all know that hypertech it's a very good tune, but the problem is that you can't get the maximum out of your car once you add more bolt ons. Considering your mods you can combine two of the on-line tunes (by example, the high load and the base for high flow downpipe) and get more from your car than you've got with hypertech.

About the spark plugs, you're right, Sweden is a cold country, so is the one were I'm from. However, once the engine is heated up the only difference between cold and warm weather would be the cooler air entering the intake manifold. I'm running ITV22's since about 2 years both in -30C and +38C weather with 0 issues. Higher boost at higher RPM comes with a bit more heat and having ITV22's instead of 20's may be a bit safer. But you can start with the ITV20's first and see how everything works, because if you don't get any knock retard the 20's should be more efficient overall.

[leka]

thank you for your time. The weird thing is after installing the Downpipe, there were no problems at all, it's hard to remember every detail.. it just came suddenly, short time after though. And also, the tip of the exhaust is black, .. Some say that is because i have to much fuel and little air coming in..
I have CP-E exhaust system
I have the money in cash and hopefully i'll hit the bank tomorrow and insert the money and order tatrix and the license, so if everything works in order i'll be posting allot more next week with a little help from you guys to see my logs would me perfect

and the reason why i bought the ITV20 and not the ITV22 is because they were out of stock
cheers

Hypertech can handle the downpipe pretty well and you should also see a slight increase in power with it. At least I did.
However, it's hard to figure out what problem you have without some monitoring. Upgrading the downpipe should not result in any power loss but an exhaust leak before the turbo may do that. If you can you should take a look in that area and see if you find any marks of gases escaping the exhaust just in case something happened during the DP install.

Now, we all know that hypertech it's a very good tune, but the problem is that you can't get the maximum out of your car once you add more bolt ons. Considering your mods you can combine two of the on-line tunes (by example, the high load and the base for high flow downpipe) and get more from your car than you've got with hypertech.

About the spark plugs, you're right, Sweden is a cold country, so is the one were I'm from. However, once the engine is heated up the only difference between cold and warm weather would be the cooler air entering the intake manifold. I'm running ITV22's since about 2 years both in -30C and +38C weather with 0 issues. Higher boost at higher RPM comes with a bit more heat and having ITV22's instead of 20's may be a bit safer. But you can start with the ITV20's first and see how everything works, because if you don't get any knock retard the 20's should be more efficient overall.

[mituc]

The tip exhaust is black even with the stock downpipe on. With an aftermarket system with cheaper catalytic converters it's going to be even worse. I intend to ditch my UR downpipe and get a new one with a new catalytic converter with more platinum in it so that I will not have any problems with the Euro4 compliance.