Return to stock without backup

[dhancock14]

Hello,

I understand the return to stock function works using a backup, but I was wondering if I've lost my backup how can I uninstall Versatuner from my ECU? The return to stock function seems to have only set a stock tune but is still installed on the ECU. I'm having some power loss issues I'm trying to work out and I wanted to eliminate the Versatuner software as a potential source and in the event that Mazda wants to do calibrations to my ECU or whatever they will be able to because I think only they can figure out what's wrong with my car at this point.

Thanks.

[mituc]

If you've lost your backup (which is basically an image of the ECU flash memory before installing Versatuner) then the only option for you is to reflash your ECU at a Mazda dealer.
However, the power issues do not come from Versatuner. They may come from the tune you're using but that's thhe point of using a tuning software, to be able to change and improve the factory calibrations.

Post a log capturing the issue that you have and also post the tune that you are using.

[Ugnius @ VersaTune]

Hello,

I understand the return to stock function works using a backup, but I was wondering if I've lost my backup how can I uninstall Versatuner from my ECU? The return to stock function seems to have only set a stock tune but is still installed on the ECU. I'm having some power loss issues I'm trying to work out and I wanted to eliminate the Versatuner software as a potential source and in the event that Mazda wants to do calibrations to my ECU or whatever they will be able to because I think only they can figure out what's wrong with my car at this point.

Thanks.

If VersaTuner cannot find the backup when you try to return to stock, it will prompt you to flash the official Mazda firmware for your car instead. VersaTuner contains stock firmware images for all supported calibrations. After you return your ECU to stock using VersaTuner, there will be no VersaTuner specific code or changes left in your ECU.

[dhancock14]

Hello,

I understand the return to stock function works using a backup, but I was wondering if I've lost my backup how can I uninstall Versatuner from my ECU? The return to stock function seems to have only set a stock tune but is still installed on the ECU. I'm having some power loss issues I'm trying to work out and I wanted to eliminate the Versatuner software as a potential source and in the event that Mazda wants to do calibrations to my ECU or whatever they will be able to because I think only they can figure out what's wrong with my car at this point.

Thanks.

If VersaTuner cannot find the backup when you try to return to stock, it will prompt you to flash the official Mazda firmware for your car instead. VersaTuner contains stock firmware images for all supported calibrations. After you return your ECU to stock using VersaTuner, there will be no VersaTuner specific code or changes left in your ECU.

Thanks for the response, I guess I'll try the return to stock again. It's not that I think the software is causing the issues, I just think maybe my ECU is fighting it or something. My AFR's look fine, timing numbers look fine, I've got good spark, clean air filter and MAF, new fuel pump, I've gone through 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner, new spark plugs, upgraded ignition coils, decent compression numbers, and I still can't figure out why my car hesitates over 20-25% throttle. And it will randomly start running perfectly normal out of no where.

This with all stock settings on the tune too. I know I've had to reflash the ECU a couple of times with my normal tune that I've run for the last couple of years because it randomly started misfiring at higher RPM's. After the reflash it completely fixed the issues which is why I think maybe my ECU is fighting it or it's bugged out.

[mituc]

Was the throttle body cleaned up as well? Do the VTCS flaps and the VTCS actuator move freely as well?

[dhancock14]

Was the throttle body cleaned up as well? Do the VTCS flaps and the VTCS actuator move freely as well?

My car is a 2010 RX8 just FYI. I haven't cleaned the throttle body, but from my logs I'm seeing the right MAF readings. I normally get about 27-28 lb/m of air flow max, and at around 3-4k rpm I get around 10-12 lb/m of airflow above 50% throttle, and around 7 lb/m at 25% throttle and that shows true in the logs even when it's hesitating. I thought maybe it's the alternator not keeping up voltage so I checked voltage, but it seems normal for the most part... I just see some spikes up to like 15v and down to like 12.6v sometimes but it fluctuates up and down around 14v.

Even when it's running like crap, AFR's look pretty normal at around 14-14.7 until 3.5k rpm, then down from 14 to just under 13 from 4k-5k rpm and progressively down to 11 around 7k+. She still pulls kinda hard once I get the rpm's up, but that mid-range power is way down once I get past 25% throttle. I know 11 AFR is way rich, but the RX8 has always gone that rich, even when I tried to lean it out with Versatuner up to 12 AFR. It just refuses to listen to my fueling map.

I swear though, this car was running perfect all day today. With Versatuner uninstalled, I did around 40 miles with a stop half way where the car was turned off for a couple of hours. It even started up super quick like normal. I was so happy I thought uninstalling Versatuner fixed it. It ran exactly like it's supposed to, full power and no hesitation, until I got around the 40 mile mark and it started hesitating again. I kept driving it for a few more miles and it wouldn't go away so I just went home.

[mituc]

Well, it's time for a compression test then. It looks like once everything in the tune and deviation learning settles things begin to get weird. It's possible that you have lower compression on one side on one of your rotors and that kind of messes things up.

I don't think the alternator is the problem but you should measure that as well. However if it was the alternator you'd get that hesitation and stuttering every time, not only when the car was driven for a while.

[dhancock14]

Well, it's time for a compression test then. It looks like once everything in the tune and deviation learning settles things begin to get weird. It's possible that you have lower compression on one side on one of your rotors and that kind of messes things up.

I don't think the alternator is the problem but you should measure that as well. However if it was the alternator you'd get that hesitation and stuttering every time, not only when the car was driven for a while.

Yeah, unfortunately I did a compression test and got around 80-90 psi on all faces which is a bit low (normal is 110-120), but not low enough for it to act the way it has been. But I'm just going to take it to Mazda and hope they can find the culprit. Just wish there was one in my city.

[mituc]

80PSI is still ok especially if all faces of the rotors are the same.
Compression figures vary with barometric pressure as well (battery, and so on) so unless you have another mint car/engine as a point of reference I'd say you're still ok.

[dhancock14]

80PSI is still ok especially if all faces of the rotors are the same.
Compression figures vary with barometric pressure as well (battery, and so on) so unless you have another mint car/engine as a point of reference I'd say you're still ok.

I swapped out my K&N air filter yesterday before I took it for a drive and it was running pretty well most of the time. In the last 20 minutes or so of driving it was running perfect. I had cleaned the air filter about a month ago and sprayed it with their oil from their kit. I think maybe that was what's causing the issues. Maybe the oil was throwing off the MAF sensor. When I cleaned the MAF sensor really well it seemed to help a lot. I saw somewhere too where someone said K&N filters or their cleaning kit can cause issues. Gunna drive it a bit more before signing off on it, but fingers crossed so I can reinstall Versatuner!