OEM Mazdaspeed 6 with Base 93US/98EU Tune

[Maxl]

Hi @ all

I'm new to Versatune and have an almost OEM Mazda 6 MPS (Catback, Simota Filter and Air Box little modded).

I wanted to test how it feel to have a little more power so I installed the Versatuner Base 93US/98EU Octane map and did a logfile.

For me it doesn't look so bad, the car drives very good the only thing I'm worried is that the WGDC is over a wide band on 100% oder near to 100%.

I know the OEM K04 is not made for this and also the OEM TMIC and DP are quite restictiv but is it something to worried about or not ? Maybe my Turbo is not the best one...

I don't want much more power, just wanted a little increase but maybe its better to upgrade more parts for this map?


Greets Maxl

[mituc]

The log doesn't look bad at all, even though, as you've mentioned already, the turbo may be a bit tired or the catalytic converters maybe a bit clogged (or a combination of both).
Since in Germany and basically across almost all Europe we have access to decent fuels I think you can gain quite a bit from more advance timing.

Next time you log please use this logging preset:

6MPS-OL-Logging-2.vtpre

(1.48 KiB) Downloaded 653 times

[Yilld]

.... the turbo may be a bit tired or the catalytic converters maybe a bit clogged (or a combination of both).

Just curious, where/how can you see this?
Thanks

[mituc]

Just curious, where/how can you see this?

The BATs (boosted air temperatures) were decently low meaning that the weather was fairly cold. If the car has the factory cats I'd expect 250-265g/s of air at 100 WGDC past 5500rpm in this weather, while in the logs posted earlier the airflow tops out at 230-233g/s.
Don't get me wrong, this is about 8-10% off so not a big deal and it's also kind of normal on cars of this age with never serviced/cleaned intake valves. But it's still something that one can look at to determine a few things.

[Maxl]

Hi,

Thanks for your answers. Turbo / Car has ~ 110.000 km on.

Next time you log please use this logging preset:6MPS-OL-Logging-2.vtpre

Next time logging, I will use this preset.

You say at this temperature I should have really 250 to 265 g/s? Since I posted here first time I changed from the Simota Filter to the OEM Filter and the airflow increased to about 240 g/s. On weekend I will post a new log.

What do you think is more helpful for less stressing the Turbo? Racepipe or an Upgrade TMIC ? My Catback is now with original converters quit loud (but more or less legal in papers) and I think if I remove the second converter it will be really to loud for me... Or than I have to install an quieter exhaust..

Greets Maxl

[mituc]

Both will help, a TMIC and any exhaust mods. Each of these will have its own contribution.
From a legal perspective you can always go with a more permissive secondary (and even primary) cat as long as you chose them wisely.
My 3MPS passes EURO4 no problem with 2x Magnaflow cats, even EURO5 when hot (it's euro4 in papers). However, I saw that these Magnaflow cats tend to degrade over time so I intend to get a GESi 300 or 400 cells high flow cat for the second cat and replace that magnalow, or even move it in the rear as a 3rd cat. Basically my car is emissions/smog legal (quickest and most powerful emissions legal 2.3DISI-T) but I have to replace the cats from time to time which is not something I want to do any more.

[Maxl]

Hi,

It's a bit time gone but now the weather is better for logs
I also installed a Corksport TMIC. I see in the log that the new TMIC help in airflow but I also have in top end a little higher bat than with the OEM TMIC. I think the less pressure lose from the new TMIC is better than the BAT's, right ? Maybe the new TMIC is better in summer and not in Winter ?
How looks the log for you (actual/desired AFR?) ?

Greets Maxl

[mituc]

Yes, the lower boost and the 10-12bhp more you have now come from the TMIC.
Past a certain boost level the OEM TMIC will simply become a restriction. However during winter you can hardly tell the difference between an OEM TMIC and and aftermarket upgraded TMIC, but during summer even though in certain mid/high load situations you may see similar BATs with an OEM and an aftermarket TMIC the air flow will be certainly higher with the aftermarket one.
Since these tunes target load, meaning a fixed airflow value at each RPM point you will either see similar BATs but lower boost with the aftermarket TMIC (which means less stress on the turbo and potentially more room to grow) or usually lower BATs _and_ boost at the same air flow levels. But it all depends on the situations you compare, in WOT there's no doubt the aftermarket TMIC will be superior in all aspects.

P.S.: on the AFRs... the actual look better than the desired However there's some small deviation there, most probably because of the higher ethanol content of the gas these days compared to back in 2004-2005 when the factory calibrations for these MAFs were done.

[Maxl]

Hi,

A little bit time is gone and the last days I had a bit time to look in the tune.. so now I have some questions

1. Why the BCS table has less values in the area from 3000rpm to ~4500 rpm than OEM even though the loads are set higher?

2. As we can see my car isn't able to flow much more air in high rpm, so I could reduce the wgdc's for example to 90% with the same results in airflow but less stress for turbo. Or doesn't that matter for the turbo ?

[mituc]

1. they are not as low as you'd think. If you look at your logs you will see they're more than you actually need tof even higher loads, and also the IAT compensation table makes them be about 2% higher than they actually are. Also, they will adjust from the base value up to 20% up or 100% down.
2. the WGDC duty cycle you see in the logs is the duty cycle of an electrovalve called Electronic Boost Controller System (EBCS). The effort of the turbo is usually directly proportional with the air flow AND boost. WGDC duty cycle will give you an indication about what's going on but not telling you the whole story, however that is the duty cycle the EBCS needs to work at (in 2 port mode at 100% duty cycle means that valve is almost shut, the pulsations when it's open are rare).

If you want more power just get a CST4 or even CST5 turbo, or even better a GTX2867R gen2 if you have extra cash available. With a properly done tune the car will be as reliable as it can be with more power.